The Spice of the Streets: Mama Ngozi Shares the Story of Suya in Abuja
When the sun sets over Abuja, the city comes alive with the aroma of suya sizzling on open grills. This beloved street food, spicy grilled meat served with onions and pepper, has become a unifying cultural symbol for Nigerians across all regions. At the heart of this tradition are the vendors who dedicate their nights to preparing the delicacy that has become part of Nigeria’s identity. In this exclusive Chrome News interview, we sit down with Mama Ngozi, a suya vendor who has been serving customers for over two decades, to hear her story and the deeper meaning of suya.
Chrome News:
Mama Ngozi, can you tell us how you first got started with suya?
Mama Ngozi:
I started in the late 1990s. My husband had lost his job, and we needed another way to support the family. I grew up watching my uncles prepare suya in Kano, so I decided to try it here in Abuja. At first, it was just a small stand, but word spread quickly because people loved the spice blend I used. Today, I have regular customers who say they can’t go a week without stopping by.
Chrome News:
What makes your suya special? Is there a secret behind the spice blend?
Mama Ngozi:
Suya is all about the yaji spice. Everyone has their own way of mixing it, but mine is a family recipe. I use groundnut powder, chili, ginger, and some secret ingredients passed down to me. The key is balance—not too hot, but flavorful enough to keep people wanting more. Also, it’s the love and care you put into the preparation that people taste.
Chrome News:
Suya is loved across Nigeria, regardless of tribe or religion. Why do you think it has such unifying power?
Mama Ngozi:
Because suya doesn’t belong to one group. It started in the north, but today you’ll find it everywhere—from Lagos to Enugu. Muslims, Christians, Igbo, Yoruba, Hausa—we all eat it together at night markets. Food has no boundary, and suya is proof of that. When people gather around the grill, they forget their differences and just enjoy the moment.
Chrome News:
What are some of the biggest challenges of being a suya vendor?
Mama Ngozi:
The work is tough. I start preparing by afternoon—cutting meat, marinating, and setting up. Then I stay up late into the night, sometimes until 2 a.m. Rising prices of beef and spices also make it hard to keep prices affordable for customers. And of course, weather can affect business—rainy nights are very slow. But despite the challenges, it has been worth it. I’ve raised my children through this work.
Chrome News:
Do you see suya as more than just food?
Mama Ngozi:
Yes, suya is part of our culture. It’s not just about eating; it’s about gathering, laughing, and sharing. When people eat suya, they are enjoying Nigeria’s spirit—spicy, bold, and full of life. For me, it’s also a legacy. I’ve trained young people who now run their own stands. That makes me proud.
Chrome News:
Have you noticed the popularity of suya growing outside Nigeria?
Mama Ngozi:
Yes, I hear from relatives in London and Houston that there are suya spots there now. Nigerians abroad want to feel close to home, and suya is one of the ways they do it. Even foreigners are beginning to love it. They call it ‘African barbecue,’ but for us, it’s more than barbecue—it’s identity.
Chrome News:
What are your dreams for the future?
Mama Ngozi:
I would love to expand, maybe open a proper suya restaurant one day. But more importantly, I want to teach the next generation. If I can create a training program for young people, they can learn how to prepare suya and start businesses of their own. That way, this tradition will continue, and more families can benefit like mine has.
For Mama Ngozi, suya is not just grilled meat—it is a symbol of resilience, unity, and cultural pride. Her story illustrates how small businesses play a vital role in shaping Nigeria’s identity and economy. As night falls and the city lights glow, her grill becomes more than a food stand—it is a place where community thrives. Through vendors like her, suya continues to be more than food. It is a story, a culture, and a way of life.